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    Balenciaga NYC Show 23 春季系列

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    25. venezoom on

      The ghost of future high tech dystopia, consumerism and globalisation continues to be the backbone for Balenciaga's mise en scene, as removed from what you would typically associate with a Couture Maison as it could be, a cauldron of juxtapositions, contradictions , cliches and healthy dose of black humour perfectly orchestrated and organised by large multinational business to appear as an anti establishment act of innovative creative revelion…………..Yes the establishment, the ones who can really afford Balenciaga.

      Carried out by apparently unconventional younger designers who think outside the box, given the task of signing a faustian contract to resurrect or re envisioned a brand and / or legacy, through their social media savviness, to foremostly remain relevant. talked about and ahead in the search algorithms, you don't really achieve that if you are not constantly being newsworth content, you don't achieve this either if you are not source of constant controversy and / or outrage, if you can attached that to clothes and accessories, well it is a wet dream publicity opportunity ………..they will be sold out in minutes……….right?

      However for the saving grace there are such younger breed, breathing new life, bravado and talent into their roles, who deeply understand their audience and clientele, they possess mature intuitive business savviness to understand the necessary evils of algorithms and relevance on social media without compromising talent, craft, quality and philosophy in the process…………………The hardest act to juggle …………….but is possible, thank god………….I would love to name a few of those special cases, but it wouldn't be timely or relevant to this editorial.

      Oh yes there are the clothes and accessories, it is fashion after all what we are talking about here. The first half of the show was solid ,all the classics and silhouettes with items such as the tailored tuxedos and suits, the overcoats, the silk draped pussy bow blouses and dresses, the grey column dress with halter neck dripping in crystals was a heavenly sight, is what you would expect as a Balenciaga customer and / or buyer. albeit mostly in black, I am partial to an acid green or magenta shade thrown in between …………

      The second half was an endless parade of Fusion Luxe Athleisure, boldly emblazoned in juxtaposed Adidas/Balenciaga Logos. Oversized, 90's Ill fitted, of urban mall clothes in appearance, realised in the finest materials by highly skilled artisans for thousand of Euros………..For a moment there I have to kept saying "This is not a Jeezy show I am watching", not that I would anyway…………..unless I must of course…………Perhaps they should have had taken some cues from the master Yohji Yamamoto with Y3, and not the backstreet boys ……….The latex masks and body suits likely inspired by Leigh Bowery or Walter Van Beirendonck………..I won't even comment on those "Monstrous Mickey Mouse Moon Boots" you got to draw the line somewhere………….When the joke isn't funny anymore.

      Hard to picture a poised Parisian woman wearing any of these hybrids without feeling self conscious or being a case of "The Emperor's New Clothes" , either way, highly unlikely ……………….The French are all about less is more elegance……………quality and intentegrity before flash……..Those garments will be be clumsily worn by a legion of rappers, former Disney stars and influencers on instagram to never ever se seen again hopefully………….the classic pieces are the saving grace and will be going to the closets of many well dressed women around the world.

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